A local’s guide to Perth, Western Australia

CHANGES

As Qantas launches London-Perth, the first non-stop flights between the UK and Australia, Anna Reece of the Perth Festival picks her favourite cultural venues, restaurants, bars and beaches in the city

It’s among the most geographically isolated cities in the world, and sits on the edge of the Indian Ocean, so it’s only natural that the bright lights of Perth come from the sun and the sky. And that’s what gives Perth its sense of openness, endlessness and possibility.

Drive in any direction out of the city and the diversity of the Western Australian landscape is at your fingertips. Head north to Coral Bay, Exmouth and the Ningaloo Reef and it’s possible to walk from red dirt tracks on to white sand and into turquoise water. Venture south, and it’s the rolling farm land and vineyards of Yallingup and Margaret River, the towering karri and tingle trees of the Valley of the Giants and the rugged beaches of Denmark, Albany and Walpole.

Perth itself is transforming and evolving as it experiences the highest population growth in Australia in the past 10 years. Perhaps now it is fully able to herald and celebrate what it has always known it has: hidden treasures.
Beaches

We have a hashtag and we use it with pride #westcoastbestcoast. The coastline is noticeably undeveloped, which makes our sweeping stretches of beach all the more spectacular. Residential apartments have only emerged in the past 15 years and are set back so as not to impose on the sand dunes. Locals choose their beaches carefully: Cottesloe is no doubt a crowd pleaser, but walk a little further south to Mosman beach or north to Swanbourne beach or North Cottesloe and the crowds disappear. Car parks along the clifftops are lightly peppered with converted buses and kombi vans selling coffee and ice-creams, and it’s possible to find a spot on the sand a good 50 metres away from the next beach towel.

For those after a little more sport, Mettams Pool is a natural rock pool surrounded by reef that offers a sheltered spot. Here snorkellers can swim through schools of garfish and buffalo bream, spot the red-lipped morwong, as well as brightly coloured tiny reef fish and abalone hiding in the rocky reef top. Dolphins and the occasional seal visit the outer reef.
Beach bites

A favourite haunt for locals is behind the sand dunes of Leighton beach in North Fremantle, 30 minutes’ drive south-west of the city. The Orange Box is a sophisticated kiosk that serves all-day brunches: bacon and egg burgers, french toast, fresh juices and homemade gelato (about A$20/£11 for juice, coffee and a B&E burger). Customers lounge in hammocks, crowd around picnic tables or laze in deckchairs before or after a plunge in the sea.

Next door and another level up – in height, as well as offering – is Bib and Tucker, a bar and restaurant owned by Olympic swimmer Eamon Sullivan. You may have to put shoes on and queue for a table, but the pineapple and burnt orange margaritas (A$18) make up for it. The view runs from the majestic cranes and industrial buzz of Fremantle port all the way up to the Norfolk pines of Cottesloe.

Closer to Perth, Yelo is on a hill overlooking Trigg and Scarborough beaches. It’s great for milkshakes, smoothies (around A$8.50), açaí bowls, homemade lemon meringue pie, and bacon and egg wraps. There’s a long, wooden veranda, communal tables and a panoramic view of the ocean.